Our Kalkpaint is a lime-based product and its main characteristics are the different shades of colour with its matte texture and superb depth. We produce and sell our Kalkpaint in powder-form which makes our products even more eco-friendly. Our Kalkpaint is VOC-free and does not contain any film forming plastic ingredients. All of the pigments (mineral- or oxides) used in our production are safe to use. The Lime in our products is highly alkaline and has a pH level of 12 so it's recommended to use protective gear. While drying on the wall only water will evaporate so it does not cause any indoor pollution. The Kalkpaint is packed in 1 kg bags in powder form. To mix the paint, add 1.7 litres of water to the Kalkpaint powder, stir it very well and then you have about 2 litres of freshly made paint which covers approx. 8 m2 in two layers (this always depends on how the surface is absorbing the Kalkpaint). Our smaller Kalkpaint bags contain 250gr. of powder and need to be mixed with 425ml of water, one small bag will cover ca. 2 m2 in two layers.
Preparation and how to do:
1) Kalklitir's Kalkpaint can be used directly on surfaces that are painted with matt or semi matt water based-paint as well as on unpainted surfaces such as concrete, gips, plaster, wood etc. walls do need to be clean and free of dust, grease etc. Wall colour does not have to be white before painting with Kalkpaint. When using Kalkpaint on surfaces that have already been painted with oil paint or lacquered surfaces or if you have plaster on parts of the walls (like on joints or where you have fixed some holes etc.) you have to apply a water based acrylic primer before you start. This is because Kalkpaint will not bond with oil-based surfaces and plaster will absorb differently so you want to prevent discolouration. When painting on wood, use proper material to prevent knots from bleeding through. Please see more information here below regarding painting on wallpaper, on furniture etc. We also have videos on "how to do" below.
2) Before applying the Kalkpaint, all surfaces should be properly dry, clean and free from dust, grease etc. All holes and cracks should be fixed, using proper material, and make sure that all repairs have dried completely before painting (please follow instructions from individual producer). If walls need to be fixed before you paint, you will need to apply one layer of primer to prevent discolouration, or you can do more layers of the Kalkpaint until you have an even absorption. It is a good rule to apply a water based acrylic primer on top of grease, fixed holes and cracks, glossy paint, wallpaper etc. in order to avoid any discolouration. It can also be good to use sandpaper to remove imperfections on the walls.
3) If you have more than one type of surface material on the same wall (like plaster and paint etc) you need to first paint one layer of water based acrylic primer (must be free of Alkyd) to prevent discolouration. Have in mind that different materials will absorb the paint differently, causing both the colour outcome to vary and also the coverage of the paint can be different.
4) Use a good quality lime-brush and paint in either up and down motions or in X-strokes. We recommend that you start in the corner at the top of the wall, painting towards the floor, covering c.a 50-70cm wide space at a time is normally a good way to paint a wall. The colour will look darker when wet and will dry up lighter. This normally takes around 3-5 hours, depending on the humidity and temperature in the room. Once the wall is dry (and lighter) you can paint the next layer.
5) Make sure to stir well in the bucket both before you start and also regularly throughout the whole painting process to prevent pigments from falling to bottom as that can cause discolouration in the paint.
6) Always paint your wall in "one go" to prevent overlapping of dry and wet paint as this will cause discolouration. Never try and fix spots or areas on parts of the wall once you have painted and/or the paint is starting to dry as that will result in a patchy looking wall.
7) Please note! Even though two layers are "normally" what is needed to get good results, there is a chance that more layers are needed to get the best results.
8) It is very important to avoid any water coming in contact with a freshly painted wall for at least 72 hours! (water will leave white spots on the wall if the paint hasn't fully dried).
9) Kalkpaint will normally dry in few hours but it will take few days and up to few weeks for it fully harden, depending on the intensity of the colour and humidity in the room. The darkest colours like Nero f.ex. will need a longer time to fully harden (it can even take a few months) and until then the colour may rub off on clothes when touched. Natural paint like Kalkpaint needs air to fully harden and it can be good to raise the temperature in the room (especially when using these darkest colours) in order to help speed up the hardening time.
10) Once you have mixed the powder with water, it can be kept for one year in an airtight container. But in powder form it can be kept for years.
* IMPORTANT TO KNOW *
Natural materials, like the ones we use in our paint, will work and behave differently from other plastic paints and as they are more "alive" they tend to need a bit more attention when being used.
- No two walls will ever look the same
- Each specific way of the person applying the paint determines the uniqueness of the final outcome
- Intense mixing of the colour produces darker shade
- Intensive brushing the paint on the wall with a brush will darken the colour
- We use mineral pigments in our production and all paint colours containing red pigments might be better mixed the day before you plan to use it and it is also good to mix them extra well as red pigments are not as easily dissolved.
- If you see undissolved pigments on the wall when you are painting the wall (they look like very small darker dots or darker lines) try rubbing them out using the brush as you go a long (not later when paint starts to dry) and remember it is good to stir (perhaps more intensively) in the bucket from time to time during the whole paint process
- You can apply the second layer as soon as the first layer has dried. You will know when it is dry as the colour will become much lighter (usually within 3-6 hours, again depending on the humidity)!
- The paint may feel dry on the wall as water will usually evaporate within few hours, but keep in mind that it will need a few days, weeks or even months to fully harden, all depending on the humidity in the room.
- The colour intensity and the final outcome will depend on the absorption power of the surface
- Normally two layers will give a good result but in some cases more layers might be needed for best results
- Lighter colours will naturally show less contrasts and therefore less effects in the surface, so go for a medium or darker shade if you want more visible effects in the surface
- The light in each room and the surrounding colours of interior will also have effects on how the colour looks like in the end
- When choosing a colour it is always best to order the hand painted colour samples first in order to get better idea of how the colour looks like in ''real life''
- The colours on your screen (computer, phone etc.) are only as accurate as the colour calibration on the devise you are using!
- Natural paint like Kalkpaint (and also Kalei) does not contain any film forming plastic ingredients. The paint will allow the walls to breath and can be used in humid rooms, like in bathrooms. It offers a natural protection against fungus. *However, we recommend avoiding areas like inside shower, around sinks, by the cooking area or other places where there is a risk of getting constant water splashes or oil, grease and food stains on the surface! (constant water will prevent the paint from fully hardening and oil/food etc will leave dark stains)
Kalklitir kalk brush
Clean bucket/bowl with lid 2.5 - 3.0 litre
Professional Electric whisk (you can use electric kitchen whisk, just clean it well after use), or just a simple hand whisk
Paper/cover for floor protection
After you have made proper preparation to the area you are about to paint, i.e., clean away all dust oil/grease, seal stains, use suitable blockers if needed, fix holes/cracks, use water based primer, masking tape, drop cloth etc. and you have mixed your bag of Kalkpaint according to instructions on the bag, you are ready to apply the paint to your surface.
It is always a good idea to consult with a professional if your project involves serious preparational work in order to get the best result.
*Remember it is recommended to use proper safety gear and working in good ventilation is always the best, plus it will speed up the drying time.
How to apply our Kalkpaint:
Kalkpaint must be applied with a good quality kalk brush (not a roller), to get the desired result and as it is watery the process is actually about as fast as applying paint with a roller.
There are manly two methods/techniques we recommend when working with our Kalkpaint; "up-and-down" (more plain results) and so called "x-strokes" (that will give you more of a cloudy effects). The technique used to apply is a matter of taste.
Both methods are really easy to do, and you can see videos on our page that demonstrate both techniques, we recommend that you watch them for better understanding.
Have in mind that there is no right or wrong outcome and that you are working with a natural material and the final outcome may vary depending on your method.
Kalklitir X-strokes from kalklitir on Vimeo.
Note: We always recommend to do two layers of Kalkpaint on a wall, sometimes three are needed to fully cover if surface is f.ex. absorbing more, and of course you can do as many layers as you like. Each layer must be completely dry before applying the next. You can change from "up and down" to "x-strokes" between layers if you like, and you can also change the colour if you want between layers, but the final layer will be the colour you will see as each layer will cover pretty well.
Start in the top corner of your wall and paint about 50-80 cm width surface using simple up and down strokes with your kalk brush or do X-strokes.
Try to have your brush fully loaded with paint, and think of it as if you are "laying" the Kalkpaint on the wall like glue, instead of rubbing it on if you are working with lighter shades, but the opposite is better if you are working with darker shades as then it is better to brush the Kalkpaint really well on by rubbing it well and evenly out on the wall with the brush to prevent it from looking "patchy"
Keep dipping your brush into the paint all the time while working your way down the wall all the way to the floor or to the end of your painting area and always remember to stir in the bucket the whole time you are painting to prevent the pigments from falling to the bottom of the bucket and to maintain colour consistency as well as it will help in prevent discolouration on your wall and help get best and more even results.
Paint like this until you have covered the wall/area you are working with.
It is important to paint the whole wall in one go, and do not take any breaks in the middle of the work allowing the edges of your paint to dry out as that will be visible once the wall is all dry.
Let the first layer dry completely before applying the second layer.
- Once the first layer is dry you can repeat the process and do the second layer.
- PLEASE NOTE in the video, we say to add an extra 10% of water to get better results when doing the X-strokes. This only applies if the brush strokes "feel heavy" or the paint doesn't flow as well on the surface, this is sometimes the case with our darker colours as they contain more pigments and therefore absorb more water and also if surface material is absorbing quickly (plaster, concrete etc).
No fixing afterwards: Once you have finished a wall and it has started to dry or is completely dry, do not get tempted to try and fix any patchy areas you feel you have missed in first round. You will get it in the next round. But if you have already applied two layers and you for some reason are not happy, you might need to do the third layer in order to be completely satisfied, as it is never possible to fix small areas afterwards!
- Trust the process, it is easy once you know how and you usually do after the first layer :)
It is also possible to add less water to the Kalk paint powder to make what we call Stucco (a thick-kalk-paste, lime-paste, lime-stucco), then you must apply the Stucco using the stainless steel spatula that will help get the surface even (trowel or Japanese trowel can be used if you feel you can get the surface even using it).
Stucco needs longer time to dry and fully harden (minimum 3-5 days depending on how thick layers are, humidity in the room etc. the longer you wait the better!).
- The colour may look darker when doing Stucco compared to painting.
add 0,8 litres of cold water to 1 kg. of Kalk paint powder, mix well and use the same day.
Or add 1.1 litres of cold water to 1 kg of Kalk paint powder, mix well, let it rest and use the next day.
- You will need about 2 - 2.5 times more product when doing Stucco.
Where to use Kalkpaint:
Our Kalkpaint can be used directly on most indoor surfaces, provided that the surface is stable and not flaking, is free of dirt, grease, and soluble salts and is absorbing the Kalkpaint well, such as cement, brick, wood, plasterboard as well as surfaces that have already been painted with water-based paint or acrylic primer (that is free of Alkyd).
Prepare your surfaces as you would for conventional paint, clean, dust, fix holes etc. and use acrylic based primer where needed, (on spartl etc) to prevent any discolouration.
When using Kalkpaint on un-even or embossed surfaces the matte texture of the Kalkpaint will not mask any imperfections or variations in the underlying surface. They will not disappear, and may even become more visible.
Kalkpaint is not suitable onto permanently damp areas or where you have constant water (like in showers etc) but it can be used on walls and ceiling in bathrooms, though we do recommend avoiding areas like around sinks, in shower etc. and in kitchens around sink and cooking areas as oil/grease will leave dark stains and some food can leave coloured stains.
Note: It is very important to always allow all preparational materials to dry completely, before applying acrylic based primer, in order to prevent discolouration of the Kalkpaint, and also to let primer dry completely before starting to apply the Kalkpaint.
Paint with Kalkpaint directly on wallpaper?
Unfortunately, there is no simple answer to that question
Usually, the wallpaper glue is water soluble, so the water from the paint can dissolve the glue, resulting in peeling and water balloons appearing on your wall. But a layer of good quality acrylic paint/primer will normally isolate the glue from the water in the Kalkpaint (it is always better to remove all the wallpaper and all the glue prior to using Kalkpaint). If you decide to paint directly on to your wallpaper using Kalkpaint make sure the wallpaper glue is non water soluble
If you have wallpaper that has already been painted before, (one or two layers) with good results, or you decide to go ahead and paint over your wallpaper using good quality acrylic-based primer and you don´t have any problems like peeling, air bubbles, etc. then you can paint over it again using Kalk paint.
If your wallpaper is embossed, the Kalk paint will not smoothen the embossed pattern out and it might therefore come through.
Using Kalk paint directly on glass fiber is fine as the glue used is non water soluble and it is meant for being painted.
Note: Our experience on using Kalklitir/Kalkpaint on wallpaper is good.
However, Kalkhome vof cannot take any responsibility on wallpaper applications, as there are so many types of wallpapers and glues to take into consideration.
It could be a good idea to do a water test before you start painting your wallpaper. The water test is to see if the wallpaper is firmly attached to the wall.
Apply water thoroughly on the surface and see if you will experience peeling or water balloons, if they appear on a large area on your wallpaper then you will have problems painting it.
Kalkpaint can be applied on surfaces that are not too warm for you to place your hand on or about 50°on Celsius.
Our Kalkpaint is not suitable to use on floor as the Kalkpaint isn't hard enough and any water absorption will damage the product.
Kalk paint is ideal for flowerpots such as terracotta, and can be applied directly on the surface, allowing the pot to breathe naturally.
Have in mind that some flowerpots on the market today have been treated with oil or grease and can be difficult or impossible to paint onto, usually these pots are big, cement-based pots, made in special moulds, where oil or grease is used to get them out.
To paint again:
If you want to change your colour of Kalkpaint, or paint again with same colour to freshen up your surface, you can do so without any preparation, (as long as you do not have to clean grease, oil, fix hole etc.)
If you want to change from Kalkpaint to another water-based paint you need to paint one layer of acrylic based primer that is free of alkyd over the Kalkpaint first.
When painting furniture with Kalkpaint you have to think about preparation work and finishing touches.
Practical notes when applying Kalkpaint on furniture:
Make sure to sand down and clean your item in order to get the best grip possible for new layers of paint. Your item must also be dry and completely free of dust, grease, wax, oil etc.
Use a good quality brush, suitable for your item.
Usually, a good quality acrylic primer is needed (use one that is free of Alkyd) do not apply thick layer of the primer, but instead spread it well out to get a better grip on your item and the paint will not flake of as easily.
Have in mind that it is better to do few well spread layers of primer on your item than one thick layer.
Let the primer dry very well between layers and sometimes it's good to sand down as well for smoother finish.
Now apply Kalkpaint. Usually two layers are needed, and let it dry well between layers.
Once the Kalkpaint is dry you can sand it down (on corners etc.) to get a used/vintage look, if that is desired.
Do this carefully so you will not remove too much at once, as the paint has not begun to harden and will therefore come of very easily.
Scratching the surface can also give a nice patina, but watch out if you don't like that as the surface is still very soft.
Now clean all dust from your item (carefully), use a brush or you can use a vacuum cleaner.
If you want to protect your item from wear and tear, grease and stains etc. then use a good water based varnish on top of the Kalkpaint. (It is important to let he final layer of Kalkpaint dry for a minimum of 72 hours before applying a varnish, or even 1-3 weeks if possible as the Kalkpaint will then have started to harden).
If you want to achieve more antique look or a beautiful patina on your item, than simply skip using a varnish and let time take its course.
It is very important to avoid all contact with water while Kalkpaint is drying, in the first 72 hours, as water will leave white spots on the Kalkpaint.
Always do a test before applying a varnish to the Kalkpainted surface to see if it can be used, as some varnishes change the colour of the Kalkpaint more than others, and some types can simply not be used due to ingredients.
* Have in mind that the protection layer will always affect the colour nuance and normally it will also add shine to the surface.
Good to know:
If you use varnish and you want to paint over your item again with Kalkpaint or another water-based paint, you must start again with applying primer.
If you have not used varnish but you want to change your Kalkpaint colour, simply paint the new layer directly on top of the old one.
If you have not used varnish but you want to change from Kalkpaint to another type of water-based paint you must use acrylic based primer first on top of the Kalkpaint.
If you want to use Wax to achieve soft and smooth finish, you must apply that on top of the first or second layer of the varnish, normally we do not use wax directly on top of Kalkpaint as the wax will change the colour too much.
(Have in mind that applying Wax on an item should be the last thing to do in order to decorate it. As applying something on top of Wax is almost impossible to do and removing it takes a lot of work and time).
Limewash is a method, used to achieve whitening of raw and untreated wood , in order to get a more "chalky" finish,
but can also be used for other decorative purposes.
One part pre mixed colour of Kalkpaint , f.ex. Ivory / mixed with three to four parts of water.
Stir it very well together in a bucket, and it's important to stir well in your bucket all the time while applying the limewash as the lime will quickly fall to the bottom, once it has been thinned down with so much water.(You can also use grey colours for your recipe of limewash to get more driftwood look).
For raw, untreated wood:
Apply the limewash on the wood using f.ex. lime brush.
Do one, two, or as many layers needed, to achieve desired look and let each layer dry completely before applying the next.
Limewash for decorative purposes: (on already Kalkpainted surfaces)
If you for example have painted an item using dark Kalkpaint colour, you can, once it is fully dry, give it one layer of white limewash using a brush, let it dry, and/or use paper towel to dry it out in random areas. Doing this you will get nice white chalky patina on your already painted surface.
Or if you have painted with a lighter Kalkpaint colour you can make a dark coloured limewash to make a nice darker patina.
Protection layer on limewash:
Items can be varnished after the use of limewash, once they are completely dry to protect the limewash from fading. If limewash is used on wood without using varnish, it will eventually wash and fade away, but can easily be done over again.
Audur Skula, decorative painter and owner of Kalklitir.NOTE: Kalkhome vof guaranties the highest quality of its products, however it does not accept any liability for the improper application of its products.