Kalkpaint is a modernised version of the traditional lime paint that has been used for centuries, particularly in European architecture and design. Our Kalkpaint is highly breathable and porous, which allows it to effectively regulate moisture levels in buildings. The Lime in our products is also highly alkaline which prevents the growth of mold or mildew. It is also highly durable and resistant to fading.
In addition to its functional properties, Kalkpaint is also prized for its aesthetic qualities. It has a unique texture and finish that gives it a distinctive look and feel, with a soft, matte appearance that is reminiscent of natural stone or plaster. Our Kalkpaint is VOC-free, all of the pigments (mineral- or oxides) used in our production are safe to use. We produce and sell our Kalkpaint in powder form which makes our products even more eco-friendly.
- 1 kg bag covers approximately 8 square meters/ 85 square feet in two layers (we always recommend applying two layers for best results and coverage)
- 250 gr bag covers approximately 2 square meters /21 square feet in two layers (we always recommend applying two layers for best results and coverage)
Measure the length and height of your wall. Multiply these numbers to find your square feet/metres.
It can be challenging to see the exact version of the colour from the computer/phone screens as the final outcome depends on the absorption of the surface you are painting on, the painting technique you use, and the light and surrounding colours.
To get the best indication on how the colour will look on your wall, we recommend purchasing the hand-painted colour samples we offer in our webshop.
If you have a specific colour in mind you can see many photos of that colour on Instagram and search for a tag, for example, #kalklitirnoce if you are interested to see photos of the colour Noce. Then you will see how the same colour can look differently in different homes and surroundings.
Next to every colour in our webshop is a description, such as strength, tone, and undertone that can help you with your choice. If you are still not sure, please don´t hesitate to contact us and we will assist you as best we can via our chat or firstname.lastname@example.org.
If you are looking for a specific colour, you can mix 2-3 colours in our collection together to achieve the custom colour that you desire. We recommend mixing 2-3 colours at most as otherwise there is a risk of the wall becoming uneven.
If you like a specific colour in our collection but wish to achieve lighter version of it then you can simply mix one of our lighter shades to it. The same applies if you wish to achieve a darker colour or a bit more grey, then you can add darker colours.
When mixing your own colour, we advice mixing the colours in powder forms first before adding water. Start slowly, test it out, and then you can gradually add more powder to the mix until you are satisfied.
Kalkpaint can be used directly on surfaces that are painted with matt or semi matt water based-paint as well as on most unpainted surfaces such as concrete, gips, plaster and wood.
Wall colour does not have to be white before painting with Kalkpaint.
Walls need to be clean and free of dust and grease.
When using Kalkpaint on surfaces that have already been painted with oil based paint or lacquered surfaces, or if you have plaster on parts of the walls where you have fixed holes and cracks. Applying a water-based acrylic primer before you start using kalkpaint is advised. This is because Kalkpaint will not bond with oil-based surfaces and plaster will absorb differently and applying a water-based acrylic primer to the whole wall will prevent discolouration. When painting on wood, use proper material to prevent knots from bleeding through.
Top Coat is a VOC free, water based product in powder form that can be applied on top of Kalkpainted surfaces to add a matte protective layer in cases where it is wanted and/or needed. Top Coat is used to protect walls from getting stains, spots and splashes etc. The more layers applied, the better protection achieved.
- Kalklitir lime-brush
- Clean bucket/bowl with lid 2.5 - 3.0 litre
- Professional Electric whisk (you can use an electric kitchen whisk, just clean it well after use), or just a simple hand whisk
- Measuring jug
- Safety goggles/gloves
- Paper/cover for floor protection
- Paint tape
There are mainly two techniques we recommend when working with our Kalkpaint. The up-and-down technique and X-strokes. The technique you choose to apply is a matter of taste.
Both methods are easy to do, you can see videos on our page that demonstrate both techniques, we recommend that you watch them to get a better understanding.
Up and down is a technique where all of your brush strokes are done in an up and down motion, this method will give you the least amount of "cloudy" effect and texture.
X-strokes is a technique where all of your strokes are crossed in a 45° angle across each other. This gives you a nice even surface with medium to high amounts of texture and effect.
Have in mind that there is no right or wrong outcome and that you are working with a natural material such as Kalkpaint and the final outcome will vary depending on your methods.
We recommend that you start in the corner at the top of the wall, painting the wall in sections of 45-90cm/1.5-3ft and down towards the floor.
The colour will look darker when wet and will dry up lighter. Make sure to stir well in the bucket both before you start and throughout the whole painting process to prevent pigments from sinking to the bottom as that can cause discolouration in the paint.
Try and apply even pressure on your brush strokes, varying the pressure can give you an uneven colour as harder strokes can crush more pigments than lighter strokes.
Work the wall in these sections in one go until you have covered the entire wall. We always recommend at least two layers since the second layer is usually where the magic happens in regards to getting the desired depth, effect and texture, but also to make sure you have full coverage on the wall.
When finishing the first layer, normally it takes around 2-5 hours until you can start painting the second layer, this can vary and depends on the humidity and temperature in the room. Hot and dry rooms dry quicker than cold and damp rooms. Once the wall is dry, you can start painting the second layer.
Once the wall is finished, you can expect a bit longer drying time for the second layer.
Have in mind that Kalkpaints hardening time can take from 4-10 days to fully harden, this depends on the colour and environment. It also means that even though the colour looks dry and ready, it still has some time left to fully harden so treat it with extra care for the first couple of days.
- Do paint your wall in one go. This will prevent overlapping of dry and wet paint which is the cause of discolouration.
- Do let the first layer dry completely before applying the second layer.
- Do have a wet cloth laying around when painting in case any spills. Wiping them off when the paint is still wet makes it a lot easier.
- Do load your brush with paint, don't be afraid to dip it more than half way. It will make the painting process quicker but also give you a better coverage.
- Don't try and fix spots or areas on parts of the wall once you have painted and/or the paint is starting to dry as that will result in a patchy-looking wall.
- Don't let any water come in contact with your newly painted wall for at least the first 72 hours. Water will leave white spots on the wall if the paint hasn't fully dried
- If you see tiny sand grain size spots from your stroke, it is usually undissolved pigments. This is more common with darker shades. When it happens, rub it out with your brush during the paint process, to break it down and it should blend in and dissolve.
Kalkpaint can be used on most indoor surfaces, provided that the surface is stable and not flaking, is free of dirt, grease, and soluble salts, and the surface is absorbing the Kalkpaint well, such as cement, brick, wood, plasterboard as well as surfaces that have already been painted with water-based paint or acrylic primer (that is free of Alkyd).
Prepare your surfaces as you would for conventional paint, clean, dust, fix holes etc. and use acrylic-based primer where needed, (on spackle etc) to prevent any discolouration.
When using Kalkpaint on un-even or embossed surfaces the matte texture of the Kalkpaint will not mask any imperfections or variations in the underlying surface. In addition Kalkpaint will not provide as a filling of cracks or holes. Our experience when applying Kalkpaint on uneven surfaces is positive and beautiful.
Unfortunately our Kalkpaint is not suitable to use on floor as the Kalkpaint is not hard enough and any water absorption will damage the product.
Kalkpaint is not suitable onto permanently damp areas or where you have constant water (like in showers etc) but it can be used on walls and ceiling in bathrooms, though we do recommend avoiding areas like around sinks, in shower etc. and in kitchens around sink and cooking areas as oil/grease will leave dark stains and some food can leave coloured stains.
Kalkpaint has high PH and therefore contains a natural protection against fungus so applying Kalkpaint on suitable bathroom wall(s) is ideal.
Unfortunately, there is no easy answer to this question.
Wallpaper glue is often water soluble and water from our paint could dissolve the glue, resulting in peeling and water pockets appearing on your wall. We therefore recommend that you make sure the wallpaper glue that was used is non water soluble by making a water test, see below instrucutions:
Apply water thoroughly on the surface and see if you experience peeling or water pockets appearing, if they appear on a large area on your wallpaper then you will have problems painting it.
If you have a wallpaper that has already been painted before, (one or two layers) with good results, or you have already painted over your wallpaper using a good quality acrylic-based primer without experiencing any problems such as peeling, air bubbles, etc. then you can paint over again using Kalkpaint.
If your wallpaper is embossed, the Kalkpaint will not smoothen the embossed pattern out and that pattern will therefore show through.
Using Kalkpaint directly on glass fiber is fine as the glue used is non water soluble and is meant for being painted.
Note: Our general experience when applying Kalkpaint on wallpaper, when all criterias are met, is good however Kalklitir cannot guarantee the result and it is therefore always the responsibility of the customer to make the choice to paint on wallpaper.
Once you have mixed the powder with water, it can be kept for one year in an airtight container. In powder form, it can be kept for years.
Kalkpaint leftovers are ideal for painting flowerpots such as terracotta, and can be applied directly on the surface, allowing the pot to breathe naturally or other items. If you have enough, It can also be kept to freshen up your wall with a new layer later on.
If you did not use varnish/sealer or Top Coat and you want to change your Kalkpaint colour or maybe just freshen up your wall with a new layer, you can simply paint the new layer directly on top of the old one. Often times, one layer is enough but sometimes two layers are needed to fully cover, especially if you want to change your colour. Just keep in mind that the wall always needs to be free off grease and oil stains.
If you want to change from Kalkpaint to another water-based paint, you need to paint a layer of acrylic-based primer that is free of alkyd over the Kalkpaint. After that you can use any paint you like.
Kalkpaint can be applied on surfaces that can be touched without burning your hand or about 50°C / 155°F.
When applying Kalkpaint on bricks, it is important to note that the bricks have to be absorbing. Some bricks have had a coating applied to them to make them water repellent.
You can make a test by splashing water on it. If the water you splashed absorbs well in to the brick, it should be fine to paint.
Yes it is possible to apply Kalkpaint on furniture as well as on many other decorative items. If you wish to have more information on how to paint furniture, please see the question "Practical notes when applying Kalkpaint on furniture"
Make sure to sand down and clean your item in order to get the best grip possible for new layers of paint. Your item must also be dry and completely free of dust, grease, wax, oil etc.
Use a good quality brush, suitable for your item.
Usually, a good quality acrylic primer is needed (use one that is free of Alkyd) do not apply a thick layer of the primer, but instead spread it well out to get a better grip on your item and the paint will not flake of as easily.
Have in mind that it is better to do a few well spread layers of primer on your item than one thick layer.
Let the primer dry very well between layers and sometimes it's good to sand down as well for a smoother finish.
Now is the time to apply Kalkpaint. Usually, two layers are needed, and let it dry well between layers.
Once the Kalkpaint is dry you can sand it down (on corners etc.) to get a used/vintage look, if that is desired.
Do this carefully so you will not remove too much at once, as the paint has not begun to harden and will therefore come of very easily.
Scratching the surface can also give a nice patina, but watch out if you don't like that as the surface is still very soft.
Now clean all dust from your item (carefully), use a brush or you can use a vacuum cleaner.
If you want to protect your item from wear and tear, grease and stains etc. then use a good water-based varnish on top of the Kalkpaint. (It is important to let the final layer of Kalkpaint dry for a minimum of 72 hours before applying varnish, or even 1-3 weeks if possible as the Kalkpaint will then have started to harden).
If you want to achieve more antique look or a beautiful patina on your item than simply skip using varnish and let time take its course.
It is very important to avoid all contact with water while Kalkpaint is drying, in the first 72 hours, as water will leave white spots on the Kalkpaint.
Always do a test before applying a varnish to the Kalkpainted surface to see if it can be used, as some varnishes change the colour of the Kalkpaint more than others, and some types can simply not be used due to ingredients. Our Top Coat can be used for minimal colour change, but have in mind that it is not scratch or scuff proof.
If you want to use Wax to achieve a soft and smooth finish, you must apply that on top of the first or second layer of the varnish, normally we do not use wax directly on top of Kalkpaint as the wax will change the colour too much.
(Have in mind that applying Wax on an item should be the last thing to do in order to decorate it. Applying something on top of Wax is almost impossible to do and removing it takes a lot of work and time).