Kalkpaint

Kalkpaint (limepaint)

Our Kalkpaint is a lime based product and its main characteristics are the different shades of colour with its matte texture and superb depth. We produce and sell our Kalkpaint in powder-form​​ which makes our products even more eco-friendly. Our Kalkpaint is VOC-free and does not contain any film forming plastics. None of the pigments (mineral- or oxides) used in our production are dangerous, however the Lime used in our production is highly alkaline and has a pH level of 12.  While drying on the wall only water will evaporate so no harm there, and after drying our Kalkpaint is harmless. The Kalkpaint is packed in 1 kg bags of powder. You need only add 1.7 liters of water, stir well and you have about 2 liters of freshly made paint which covers approx. 8 m2 in two layers

 

Preparation and how to do:

1) Kalklitirs Kalkpaint can be used directly on surfaces that are painted with matt or semi matt water based paint, as well as on unpainted surfaces such as concrete, gips, plaster etc.​

2) Before applying the paint, all surfaces should be properly dry and clean and free from grease.

​3) All holes and cracks should be fixed as usual, using proper material, and make sure that all repairs have dried completely before painting, please follow instructions from individual producers.

​4) It is a good rule to apply water based acrylic primer on top of grease, fixed holes and cracks, glossy paint, wallpaper etc. in order to avoid any discoloration, and also good to use sandpaper to even out and erase spots in order 

"to get a good grip” for Kalklitirs Kalkpaint.

​5) When using Kalklitir on surfaces that have already been painted with oil paint or lacquered surfaces, you have to apply water based acrylic primer before you start using Kalklitir.

​6) When painting on wood, use proper material to prevent knots from bleeding through.

​7) It is very important to avoid any water coming in contact with a freshly painted wall for at least 72 hours! (water, if in contact in the first 72 hours, will leave white spots on the wall)

​8) You will get the best result when painting min. two layers, and best brush to use is a good quality lime-brush.

9) Always paint your wall in one "go" to prevent overlapping and edges to dry out. Never try and fix spots or other areas on parts of the wall once the paint is starting to dry out as that will result in a patchy looking wall. 

10) Use a brush, painting either up and down or in X-strokes. Starting in the corner top of the wall, painting towards the floor, covering c.a 50-70cm each time. Normally two layers are enough to fully cover. 

11) Once you have mixed the powder with water, it can be kept for one year in an airtight container. But in powder form it can be kept for years. 

​Audur Skula / decorative painter, Founder of Kalklitir

Materials:

  • Kalk paint

  • Kalklitir kalk brush

  • Clean bucket/bowl with lid 2.5 - 3.0 liter

  • Professional Electric whisk (you can use electric kitchen whisk, just clean it well after use), or just a simple hand whisk

  • Measuring jug

  • Safety goggles/gloves

  • Paper/cover for floor protection

  • Paint tape

 

After you have made proper preparation to the area you are about to paint, i.e. clean away all dust oil/grease, seal stains, use suitable blockers if needed, fix holes/cracks, use water based primer, masking tape, drop cloth etc. and you have mixed your bag of Kalk paint according to instructions on the bag, you are ready to apply the paint to your surface. 

Remember it is recommended to use proper safety gear and working in good ventilation is always the best, plus it will speed up the drying time.

How to apply our Kalk paint:

  • Kalk paint must be applied with a good quality kalk brush (not a roller), to get the desired result and as it is watery the process is actually about as fast as applying paint with a roller.

  • There are two methods/techniques we recommend when working with our Kalk paint;

  • "up-and-down" that will give you a more patchy surface,

  • and so called "x-strokes" that will give you more of a cloudy effects.  

  • Both methods are really easy to do, and you can see videos on our page that demonstrate both techniques, we recommend that you watch them for better understanding.

  • Our experience is that up-and-down is perhaps better to apply when working with lighter colours, while x-strokes work better on darker colours. But as always, this is a matter of taste.

  • Have in mind that there is no right or wrong outcome and that you are working with a natural material and the final outcome may vary. 

 

Note: We always recommend to do two layers of Kalk paint on a wall (sometimes three are needed), and of course you can do as many layers as you like. Each layer must be completely dry before applying the next. You can change from "up and down"  to "x-strokes"  between layers if you like.

 

Up-and-down

  • Start in the top corner of your wall and paint about 50-80 cm width surface using simple up and down strokes with your kalk brush.

  • Try to have your brush fully loaded with paint, and think of it as if you are "laying" the Kalk paint on the wall like glue, instead of rubbing it on.

  • Use soft strokes and keep dipping your brush into the paint all the time while working your way down the wall all the way to the floor or to the end of your painting area.

  • Paint like this until you have covered the wall you are working with.

  • It is important to do this in one go, and do not take any breaks in the middle of the work allowing the edges of your paint to dry out!

  • Remember to stir occasionally in the bucket the whole time, to prevent the pigments falling to the bottom of the bucket and to maintain consistency as well as prevent discolouration on your wall. 

  • Let the first layer dry completely before applying the second layer.

X-strokes

  • Do the wall in the same way as you do the up and down method, i.e. start in the top corner and work your way down       (50-80cm), but instead of doing soft up and down strokes with your lime brush you paint like you are doing a                      big X on your wall.

  • Repeat painting X until all your wall is covered.

  • Let the first layer dry completely before applying the second layer.

 

Final outcome:                                                                                                                 

Several factors can influence the final outcome of your paint work. F.ex. strong/heave strokes will crush the pigments more than softer strokes resulting in more intense colour, different surfaces absorb the paint differently from one another, some paint techniques can affect the shades etc.

 

Fixing afterwards:

Once you have finished a wall and it has started to dry or is completely dry, do not get tempted to try and fix any patchy areas you feel you have missed in first round. You will get it in the next round, but if you have already applied two layers and you for some reason are not happy, you might need to do the third layer in order to be completely satisfied.

 

Trust the process, it is easy once you know how and you usually do after the first layer :)

 

Stucco ?

  • It is also possible to add less water to the Kalk paint powder to make what we call Stucco (a thick-kalk-paste, limepaste), then you must apply the Stucco using steinless steel spatula/trowel or Japanese trowel.

  • Stucco can be used on same areas as you would do paint f.ex. on walls and tabletops and same preparation is needed.

  • Stucco needs longer time to dry and fully harden (minimum 3-5 days depending on how thick layers are, humidity in the room etc. the longer you wait the better!).

  •  once completely dry, Stucco can be protected with one or two layers of StucVernisPU.

 

Stucco recipe:

  • add 0,8 liters of cold water to 1 kg. of Kalk paint powder, mix well and use the same day.

  • Or add 1.1 liters of cold water to 1 kg of Kalk paint powder, mix well, let it rest and use the next day.

 

Where to use Kalk paint: 

Our Kalk paint can be used directly on most indoor surfaces, provided that the surface is stable and not flaking, is free of dirt, grease, and soluble salts and is absorbing the Kalk paint well. Such as cement, brick, wood, plasterboard as well as surfaces that have already been painted with water based paint or acrylic primer. 

  • Prepare your surfaces as you would for conventional paint, clean, dust, fix holes etc. and use acrylic based primer where needed, (on spartl etc) to prevent any discolouration.

  • When using Kalk paint on un-even or embossed surfaces the matte texture of the Kalk paint will not mask any imperfections or variations in the underlying surface. They will not disappear, and may even become more visible.

  • Kalk paint is not suitable onto permanently damp areas.

  • It is always a good idea to consult with a professional if your project involves serious preparational work in order to get the best result.

 Note: It is very important to always allow all preparational materials to dry completely, before applying acrylic based primer, in order to prevent discolouration of the Kalk paint, and also to let primer dry completely before applying the Kalk paint.  

Is it possible to paint with Kalk paint directly on wallpaper ?

  1. Unfortunately there is no simple answer to that question

  2. Usually the wallpaper glue is water soluble, so the water from the paint can dissolve the glue, resulting in peeling and water balloons appearing on your wall. But a layer of good quality acrylic paint/primer will normally isolate the glue from the water in the paint. It is always better to remove all the wallpaper and all the glue prior to using Kalk paint. If you decide to paint directly on to your wallpaper using Kalk paint make sure the wallpaper glue is non water soluble

  3. If you have wallpaper that has already been painted before, (one or two layers) with good results, or you decide to go ahead and paint over your wallpaper using good quality acrylic based primer and you don´t have any problems like peeling, air bubbles, etc. then you can paint over it again using Kalk paint.

  4. If your wallpaper is embossed, the Kalk paint will not smoothen the embossed pattern out and it might there fore come through.

  5. Using Kalk paint directly on glass fiber is fine as the glue used is non water soluble and it is meant for being painted.

Note: Our experience on using Kalklitir/Kalk paint on wallpaper is good.

However Kalkhome vof can not take any responsibility on wallpaper applications, as there are so many types of wallpapers and glues to take into consideration.

Water test:

It could be a good idea to do a water test before you start painting your wallpaper. The water test is to see if the wallpaper is firmly attached to the wall.

Apply water thoroughly on the surface and see if you will experience peeling or water balloons, if they appear on a large area on your wallpaper then you will have problems painting it.

Heat:

Rule of thumb is that Kalk paint can be applied on surfaces that are not too warm for you to place your hand on

(about 50°on celcius).

Floor:

Kalk paint is not suitable to use on floor as the Kalk paint isn't hard enough and any water absorpation will damage the product.

We do have another product called Kalkstuc that is suitable for floors.

Flowerpots:

Kalk paint is ideal for flowerpots such as terracotta,  and can be applied directly on the surface, allowing the pot to breathe naturally.

Have in mind that some flowerpots on the market today have been treated with oil or grease and can be difficult or impossible to paint onto, usually these pots are big, cement based pots, made in special molds, where oil or grease is used to get them out.

To paint again:

If you want to change your colour of Kalk paint, or paint again with same colour to freshen up your surface, your can do so without any preparation, (as long as you don not have to clean grease, oil, fix hole etc.)

If you want to change from Kalk paint to another water based paint you need to paint one layer of acrylic based primer that is free of alkyd over the Kalk paint first.

When painting furniture with Kalk paint you have to think about preparation work and finishing touches.

Practical notes :

  • Make sure to sand down and clean your item in order to get the best grip possible for new layers of paint. Your item must also be dry and completely free of dust, grease, wax, oil etc.

  • Use a good quality brush, suitable for your item.

  • Usually a good quality acrylic primer is needed, do not apply thick layer of the primer, but instead spread it well out to get a better grip on your item and the paint will not flake of as easily.

  • Have in mind that it is better to do few well spread layers of primer on your item than one thick layer.

  • Let the primer dry very well between layers and sometimes it's good to sand down as well for smoother finish.

  • Now apply Kalk paint. Usually two layers are needed, and let it dry well between layers. 

  •  Once the Kalk paint is dry you can sand it down (on corners etc.) to get a used/vintage look, if that is desired.

  • Do this carefully so you will not remove to much at once, as the paint has not begun to harden and will there fore come of very easily. 

  • Scratching the surface can also give a nice patina, but watch out if you don't like that as the surface is still very soft.

  • Now clean all dust from your item (carefully), use a brush or you can use a vacum cleaner.

  • If you want to protect your item from wear and tear, grease and stains etc. then use a good water based  varnish on top of the Kalk paint. (It is important to let he final layer of Kalk paint dry for a minimum of 72 hours before applying the varnish

         or even 1-3 weeks if possible as the Kalk paint will then have started to harden). 

  • If you want to achieve more antique look or a beautiful patina on your item, than simply skip using the varnish and let time take it's course.

  • It is very important to avoid all contact with water while Kalk paint is drying, specially the first 72 hours, as water will leave white spots on the Kalk paint. 

  • For protection, we recommend to use t.ex. Kalklitir's good quality two component StucVernisPU.  (pls. read all about how to apply it under "protective layer").

  • Use a roller or a brush for the varnish, and normally two thin layers are sufficient, you can use the PU vernis with or without the hardener.

  • When doing surfaces that need to be extra strong and durable we recommend to use it with the hardener. 

  • If StucVernisPU is used without the hardener, the water, chemical and wear resistance will be less. 

 If using another type of water based varnish, always do a test before, to see if it can be used, as some varnishes change the colour of the Kalk paint more than others, and some types can simply not be used due to ingredients.

 * Have in mind that the Protection layer will always effect the colour nuance.

Good to know:

  • If you use varnish and you want to paint over your item again with Kalk paint or another water based paint, you must start again with step a)

  • If you have not used varnish but you want to change your Kalk paint colour, simply paint the new layer directly on top of the old one.

  • If you have not used varnish but you want to change from Kalk paint to another type of water based paint you must use acrylic based primer first (must be free of alcyd), on top of the Kalk paint.

  • If you want to use Wax to achieve soft and smooth finish, you must apply that on top of the first or second layer of the varnish, normally we do not use wax directly on top of Kalk paint as the wax will change the colour too much.

(Have in mind that applying Wax on an item should be the last thing to do in order to decorate it. As applying something on top of Wax is almost impossible to do and removing it takes a lot of work and time).

Limewash? 

Limewash is a method, used to achieve whitening of raw and untreeted wood , in order to get a more "chalky" finish,

but can also be used for other decorative purposes.

Limewash recipe :

  • One part pre mixed colour of Kalk paint , f.ex. Ivory / mixed with three to four parts of water.

  • Stir it very well together in a bucket, and it's important to stir well in your bucket all the time while applying the limewash as the lime will quickly fall to the bottom, once it has been thinned down with so much water.(You can also use grey colours for your recipe of limewash to get more driftwood look).

 For raw, untreated wood: 

  • Apply the limewash on the wood using f.ex. lime brush.

  • Do one, two, or as many layers needed, to achieve desired look and let each layer dry completely before applying the next.

For decorative purposes : (on already Kalk painted surfaces)

  • If you for example have painted an item using dark Kalk paint colour, you can, once it is fully dry, give it one layer of  white limewash using a brush, let it dry, and/or use paper towle to dry it out in random aries. Doing this you will  a nice white chalky patina on your already painted surface.

  • Or if you have painted with a lighter Kalk paint colour you can make a dark coloured limewash to make a nice darker patina.

Protection layer on limewash:

Items can be varnished after the use of limewash, once they are completely dry to protect the limewash from fading.

If limewash is used on wood without using varnish, it will eventually wash and fade away, but can always be done over again.

 

NOTE:  Kalkhome vof guaranties the highest quality of its products, however it does not accept any liability for the improper application of its products.